Iconic French chef stakes reputation on vegan menu

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PARIS — Celebrated French chef Alain Passard has made history once again.

The 68-year-old has become the first three Michelin star chef in France to switch to an entirely plant-based menu, opening a new chapter in the world of luxury dining.

Since July 21, Passard has stopped serving meat, fish, dairy products and eggs at L’Arpege, his restaurant in the French capital’s chic seventh district that he has run for nearly 40 years.

The only exception is honey that comes from the restaurateur’s own beehives.

Passard said the switch had been in the pipeline for a year.

“There’s light in this cuisine,” he told AFP. “There are taste sensations that I’ve never experienced anywhere else.”

L’Arpege used to be known as one of the leading rotisseries in Paris. It earned three Michelin stars in 1996, and has held the distinction ever since.

In 2001, Passard caused a stir in the rarefied world of French cuisine by dropping red meat from his menu and saying he would focus more on vegetables grown in his gardens.

The shift made him one of the first ambassadors of plant-based cuisine.

While Passard is motivated by environmental concerns in his new quest, it is above all a culinary challenge.

The restaurant’s updated menu includes mesclun praline with roasted almonds and melon carpaccio. Lunch costs 260 euros.

Passard has no plans to become a vegan militant himself.

“I still eat a little poultry and fish,” he said.

“But I’m more comfortable with plants. They allow me to learn.”

‘Colossal task’

French chef Claire Vallee knows from experience that Passard is up for a challenge.

“It requires a lot more preparation, knowledge and research,” Vallee said of plant-based dishes.

“It’s quite a colossal task.”

In 2021, her vegan restaurant in southwest France won a Michelin star, the first for an establishment serving only animal-free products in France.

Vallee in 2016 launched ONA –- which stands for Origine Non Animale (“Non-Animal Origin”) –- thanks to crowdfunding from supporters and a loan from a green bank.

The establishment closed in 2022, and the 45-year-old chef went on to open several pop-up restaurants.

Since then, no other French restaurant serving only animal-free products has been awarded a Michelin star.

Internationally, vegan haute cuisine is rare.

Eleven Madison Park in New York has kept its three stars after becoming exclusively vegan in 2021.

In the Netherlands, De Nieuwe Winkel’s plant-based menu has earned it two Michelin stars.

Laurent Guez, a food critic for French newspaper Le Parisien and business daily Les Echos, said Passard’s announcement was “a major event”.

But he also warned that not a lot of chefs could excel in the art of high-end plant-based gastronomy.

“It’s exceptional cuisine that not everyone can allow themselves to launch into,” he said.

Michelin guide international director Gwendal Poullennec said he was “delighted” with the transition at L’Arpege, describing it as a “positive approach”.

“We will continue to follow the evolution of L’Arpege, remaining faithful to our criteria,” he told AFP.

Passard has given himself two years to take his kitchen skills to a new level.

Is he worried about losing his three stars?

“I’ve never thought about that,” he said.

“We’re going to have to deliver. If we can maintain this level of quality, then I’m extremely confident.”